Istanbul

Ah, thank goodness for hot elma cay - or apple tea. Just looking at this golden goblet brings back fond memories of my childhood and holidays in Turkey. It's worth noting the Turks don't actually drink the stuff very much and instead opt for a strong black tea - it's more of a hit with the tourists - but that didn't stop me last weekend in Istanbul. I'm a hardened espresso drinker after meals but this made an equally nice digestif and was a good pick-me-up after traipsing round the Aya Sofya and Blue Mosque.

Rachel and I arrived into Sultanahmet, the heart of the Old City, feeling rather weary. We had underestimated the journey from the Sabiha Gokcen airport and the Friday night traffic bottlenecks. So we dumped our bags, briefly admired the view on our roof terrace and headed out for a bite to eat.

My main was rather disappointing so I'll fast forward to firin sutlac, a Turkish rice pudding which was a bit better. This was served chilled which was unexpected but the spiced honeyed flavour was comforting all the same - the ice-cream garnish wasn't necessary and had a hint of caramel which detracted from the rest of the dish.

Day two was spent cramming in the sights and boy, were there a lot of them. Fortunately, Istanbul has plenty of Turkish delights to provide sustenance. I had to take a quick snap of the sesame covered simits (bread rings) which were reminiscent of New York bagels with similar vendors which could be found on pretty much every street corner.

Like Marrakech, Istanbul is famed for its sweet treats - when in Rome...

This impressive airbag was lavas bread which was served with lashings of hayari (yoghurt with roasted aubergine and garlic) at my favourite Anatolian restaurant in the City - Hamdi et Lokantasi. This eatery overlooks Galata and the Golden Horn waters and while perhaps a little institutional (you take a lift up from the baklava shop entrance), the food is too good to argue with. And the hungry locals seemed to agree.

Hamdi's speciality was definitely rustic Meze- or Turkish tapas. This odd looking specimen was so delicious I ordered two - it was icli kofte- meatball rolled in bulgur wheat and deep fried.

The restaurant was a stone's throw from the intoxicating Spice Bazaar - my must see of the trip even for the non-foodies out there.

I headed to no. 14 - Pinar for my lokum (Turkish delight). There, the jewelled jellies come in every shape and size imaginable - sausages of cranberry, squares filled with walnuts, pistachio and rosewater. Be clear about what you want as my 'helper' packed almost 15 quids' worth into a box for my mother - though she hasn't complained - and I'm not surprised, they really are very good.

I'm not a big fan of Turkish delight as it conjures up Cadbury's soapy pink goo but I took in a small box of rose lokum to work for my friend Elinor and ended up scoffing most of it myself!

Another stall well worth checking out is no. 2 - Erzincanlilar. This deli is jam-packed with plump olives, Beyaz peynir (white goat's cheese) and the biggest cabinet of honeycomb I've ever laid eyes on. I bought a slab home to mix in with some Greek yoghurt and I must say it's been a bit disappointing so I'm trying to find a a nice recipe to make it work - answers on a postcard please...

I bought some apple tea leaves to try and replicate the drink at home as well as some of the dissolvable granules for ease at work. Though it's quicker, the instant stuff is verging on hot apple juice so I must boil up a real pot this weekend.

For those who haven't been already, I hope these snapshots will encourage you to visit Istanbul. The mosques are hauntingly beautiful, the atmosphere, electric and the food, refreshingly honest. And if nothing else, they serve up a darn good brew.