Sunday, 28 February 2010
Ottolenghi, 297 Upper St, N1
Wednesday, 24 February 2010
Corrigan's, Mayfair, W1
Tuesday, 16 February 2010
Valentine's cook-off
While Britney Spears dined out on a drive-thru Maccie D's with her beau on Valentine's Day, this year Robert and I set to work in the kitchen.
I love it when you create a delicious meal out of remarkably ugly ingredients. Celeriac or 'knob celery' as it is also known (apparently), is just that. I was keen to take advantage of the celeriac that is still in season so decided to cook Jamie Oliver's potato, celeriac and truffle oil soup.
Truffle oil is great, it makes an average risotto or mash feel really indulgent and it's available in most decent supermarkets these days so is relatively easy to get hold of. I was in Borough market on Saturday morning so picked up a bottle of white truffle oil (it has a more pungent smell than the black variety) from one of the stalls for seven quid.
I was fairly daunted by the celeriac as I've never prepared one before but it was pretty simple- you just take to it with a knife, cut off all the tough brownish exterior, then chop it up like a potato and boil until tender. The soup used chicken stock, floury potatoes and a sprig of thyme which had to be boiled up and simmered for about 40 minutes before liquidising. Some double cream and about 5 tablespoons of the truffle oil and the soup was done. I think Jersualem artichokes would be a good alternative if you don't like celeriacs so that's my next experiment.
Rob covered off the main, we had pulled shoulder of pork which was scored, rubbed thoroughly with salt and pepper and roasted for about 7 hours- it literally fell off the bone and had the perfect crackling!
I had planned to make some chocolate fondants after being inspired by a recent cookery evening with work but decided it might be a bit over-kill after eating half a hog so compromised with some truffles.
I used a recipe of 170g of green and blacks chocolate, a tin of evaporated butter, some butter and crushed digestives. After I was making the finishing touches to the chocs with a dusting of cocoa i saw a bag of amaretti biscuits which I think would have made them a bit more interesting- next time. These went down well at work but aesthetically weren't pretty, they looked like giant animal droppings. I found them a bit rich (funny that, with all the butter and 2 bars of chocolate!) and a bit too biscuity. I'd was hoping they'd have a creamy ganache texture so will ease off the biscuits next time but they weren't bad for a first attempt and tasted better fresh out of the fridge.
Monday, 8 February 2010
Madisons Deli, Stanmore
If you ever happen to fall asleep and wake up at the end of the Jubilee line in Stanmore in need of a pick-me-up, Madison’s is your place.
Nana ‘B’ Strooooodell is a big fan of Madison’s (despite the fact that the food isn’t actually ‘kosher’) but at the ripe age of 94 she struggles to get out and eat-in there any more so when my brothers and I visit we often pick up a few bits to take away.
She likes their chopped liver and tongue, neither of which I can stomach- I was force fed tongue when I was a little girl by my parents and I can still remember gagging at the sight of its marbling!
So when my brother Matthew and I dropped in there on a recent visit for a spot of lunch I stuck clear of the cold cuts and tucked into some warming chicken noodle soup with kreplach.
Despite my rich yid heritage on my dad’s side I was first introduced to it at Harry Morgan’s, a New York style deli by my friend Leah. They used to have a branch round the corner to our office but sadly it closed a while back and since then I’ve been craving for a kreplach fix.
I have to say, I was a bit disappointed by Madison’s take on it. The chicken soup itself was really flavoursome; a sparkling consommé which was bobbing with carrots. But the kreplach was a bit doughy and stingy on the meat filling- Harry’s kreplach is stuffed with meat, beef, I think, and is a lot more tasty.
The mains were better. Matthew had a Reuben sandwich (£6.50) which came with lashings of salt beef, sauerkraut and Swiss cheese. He mistakenly smeared most of the accompanying mustard on it and it was so hot it almost blew off his head.
I went for salt beef on rye straight up and was more sparing with the condiments. I also ordered some gherkins which we shared- they looked like they were swiped from Mrs Elswood herself and added a perfect tang.
The ambiance of Madison’s is great and despite the kreplach let-down the restaurant is well worth a visit out to Zone 5- if only to check out the Craig David “all-over your body” collection of gold discs which adorn the wall behind the counter.
See below a Kreplach recipe from a vintage Jewish read by Jennie Grossinger that 'B' gave to me a year or so back:
Noodle dough:
2 cups flour, 2 eggs, 1 tablespoon of water, 1/2 teaspoon salt
Place unsifted flour on a board and make a well in centre. Add eggs, water and salt into the hole. Work into the flour with one hand, kneading until soft and elastic. Roll and stretch the dough as thin as possible. The thinner, the better.
Cut into 3-inch squares and place a tablespoon of your filling on each. One option is mince beef, onions, salt and pepper and a bit of a fat but any left over meat works.
Fold the dough into a triangle and press edges together with a bit of water to moisten. Cook in boiling water/soup for around 20 mins until they rise. Drain. They can then be fried or served in the soup.
Tuesday, 2 February 2010
Pizza East, Shoreditch, E1
The dingy entrance to Pizza East is a bit disconcerting but don’t let that put you off. It’s on the corner of Shoreditch High Street and Bethnal Green Road and leads to a fantastic industrial space full of exposed pipes and distressed concrete walls.
After a warm up of Basil-flavoured Hoxton 'teas' (mojitos) with friends at the Book Club up the road we had a bottle of red while waiting impatiently for our table to free-up. It was 10pm and the boys amongst the group were ravenous. I was too. After some strategic loitering and glares from my pal Polly we were soon seated at a long studded steel refectory table in a prime spot next to the bar which was draped with legs of aged ham.
I nearly made the error of going for a ricotta-based 10” pizza base as the toppings sounded lush but our oversized Ray-ban spectacled waiter encouraged me to go for the Margherita and DIY it with San Daniele, buffalo mozzarella and a pot of pesto on the side - I was so glad I did as the tomato-sauce base was just like mama used to make!
The company was good and the prices were really reasonable despite the popularity of this new opening so I’m already scheming to go back. Some of our diners had to flee for the last train home to the burbs but Pol and I were set on a pud so shared the salted chocolate caramel tart. I love salty-sweet desserts- they seem to be appearing a lot more on menus these days. This tart could have been a fraction less salty but still hit the spot. It reminded me of some tapas I had in Barcelona at a great little bar called Tapac 24 (Ex- El Bulli Carles Abellan’s bar). There they serve Chocolate con sal, aceite y pan (Spanish), literally chocolate ice-cream with bread, olive oil and salt. Sounds grim but they use good oil and chocolate and the flavours are subtle and really work. If you only have time to go to one tapas bar there make it this one!